Drivers may have noticed the big green “Krem Bakery & Cafe” sign hanging on a storefront on Virginia Beach Boulevard near North Lynnhaven Road. For months, brown paper covered the windows, hiding the work going on inside.
The wait is over. The cafe is open, specializing in European desserts and baked goods such as eclairs, macarons and tarts. It also has a limited menu of breakfast and lunch items like stuffed crepes, and a ham and cheese panini sandwich.
I visited for breakfast and took some treats home for later.
Yellow flowers floated inside green vases on the tables, brightening the dining room on this cloudy drizzly day. I admired the green pillows on a bench along one wall and the brown couches with gold legs on the other side. The modern green and gold decor was inviting.
Rekaya Gibson
Syrniki, a fried Ukrainian pancake at Krem Bakery & Cafe in Virginia Beach.
Ukrainian natives Max Kremenchugskiy and his wife and Krem owner, Iryna, were working the counter and cooking, respectively. The display case was low and wide like a jewelry store counter, yet filled with goodies found in a Parisian bakery. I placed my order and sat down at one of the many black tables.
A server delivered my food with a smile. It was my first time trying syrniki, fried Ukrainian pancakes. They were made with farmer’s cheese. The golden rounds looked appetizing; I expected a smooth and creamy texture. But they crumbled with a fork and tasted like dry cottage cheese instead. The syrniki were slightly sweet but didn’t need syrup. The accompanying cream was enough. It provided an extra dose of sugar with a vanilla flavor. Good pick. I would order the dish again.
I was in nirvana for the next two days with what I took home.
I “ate” the popular lemon tart with my eyes before ingesting it. The sheen on the yellow chocolate dome made me feel like Narcissus, the god of vanity, seeing his reflection in water for the first time. I was in love. I used the back of the spoon to break the dome and dug into layers of a lemony mousse with fresh lemon pulp and gel, shortbread and frangipane with mint. The creamy sweet dessert had a zesty punch that would make the Kool-Aid Man proud. Scrumdiddlyumptious.
I enjoyed the chocolate éclair too. I cut it in half to share with my husband, Curtis. The filling looked like a cold luscious pudding. Each nibble had plenty of chocolate pastry cream unlike some I’ve had at other establishments.
At some point, I tiptoed into the kitchen for an impromptu taste test of the chocolate, strawberry and vanilla macarons. Their flavor profiles were spot-on but my favorite was the Raffaello — a bite-sized delight. It was an almond macaron with white chocolate coconut ganache that was dipped in white chocolate and coconut flakes. It was decadent. I could eat at least six of them in one sitting. Imagine my frustration lusting after the only one left for Curtis. Ugh.
The weekend wasn’t complete until I stuffed my face with the pear mousse pastry. One bite, multiple yums and a few smacking sounds escaped my lips. The chocolate exterior and the pear compote interior sent my endorphins through the roof. I never knew I needed the combo in my life. The crunchy toasted almonds, the fluffy mousse and the moist sponge cake played their parts too. Dazzling. I thought to myself: Pear doesn’t get enough love; I don’t know why people don’t use it more often.
I’m grateful for Iryna’s creativity. She first came to the United States in 2013 on a J-1 student visa and worked at the Oceanfront where she met Max, who has lived in the country since he was 8. She returned home to complete her degree and came back in 2015 on a fiancé visa. Years later, Iryna realized that she had a passion for baking and learned to perfect high-quality desserts similar to those in Europe. After the war broke out in Ukraine, she raised $25,000 in two months by selling more than 5,000 macarons to support efforts in her country. That’s when the couple knew the idea of opening a bakery would be a good move.
I concur.
Rekaya Gibson, [email protected], 757-295-8809; on Twitter, @gibsonrekaya
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If you go
Where: 2923 Virginia Beach Blvd., Virginia Beach
Hours: 8 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday
Prices: Bakery items $3 to $11; breakfast $10 to $15; salads/sandwiches $9 to $13
Details: 757-663-3488; krembakeryandcafe.com
A correction was made on Aug. 23, 2023: Due to incorrect information provided to The Virginian-Pilot and Daily Press, Max Kremenchugskiy’s title was incorrect in the story. He is not a co-owner in the restaurant.
